Traveling to the heart of the city at Rattanakosin Island, there are many chances to pass Lan Luang Road, the location for “Nang Loeng district” which is the familiar name of a historical neighborhood. This place has an old history since the beginning of Rattanakosin era and the old home of Mae Choy who is the friend of Mae Ploy found in “4 Reigns (4 Pan din)” book. Besides, there are many “Delicious food” for you to try!
SCB Thailand invites you to turn back the time and go to this old attractive place since our grandfather which has already become the well-preserved market.
“Nang Loeng” came from Cambodian language “Chanang Loeng” which means a big pot. Since 1782, there was the Cambodian rebellion and they were moved to this area. However, the Cambodians are good at making pot, jar, and cray pot. So, people started to call this area “Ban Chanang Loeng” and finally changed to “Nang Loeng”.
The highlight of Nang Loeng district is “Nang Loeng Market” which sell some fresh produce and many legendary meals for you to try at least once! Nang Loeng Market has officially opened on 29 March 1900 (Rattanakosin era 118). This is one of the first onshore markets in Bangkok and once was called in Chaozhou Chinese as “Xing Tok Luk” which means “The new market” as same as Yaowarat old market.
The first step in the market, you will feel lively and busy with this market life. All snacks, fruits, and many stalls are set in place and there are many tourists both Thai and international at the market. So, as we are here, we should try the famous food of Nang Loeng Market.
The kinds of beef stew noodle shop for every meat lover which has been opened over 50 years. It is better to come early because it was crowded since the time that we arrived which was before noon.
The recommend menu are noodles, stew soup, beef stew, tendon stew, and entrails. You can feel the rich and tasty soup with the tender beef. It just tastes so good.
This is another old street food with the Shell Shuan Shim award to be seen. The recommended menus are pork sausage and rice sausage which has a little sweet and salty taste. These are recommended to eat with the sweet Pla Neam. There is also a 1-kg wholesale. However, there are most locals line up in front of this stall.
Another famous restaurant is Sor Roong Roj which is the braised duck shop. It is open all day and there is also an air conditioner zone. There are many famous people pictures that had ever come to this restaurant.
The braised ducks, guts, dry noodle and wontons are very yummy and cheap!
Ya Chaem‘s Kanom Bueang Yuan or Ya Chaem’s Vietnamese stuffed crispy omelet which is the original recipe for 3 generations of Aon auntie. This shop has opened over 80 years.Kanom Bueng Yuan is stuffed with many great combinations whether stir-fried coconut and shrimp, bean sprouts, bean curds, and pickled turnip. The sweet and salty taste and pepper smell are from the coconut oil which makes the meal dried and vivid tasty look. Eating together with pickles which made from cucumber, onions ginger and chili in vinegar and coconut sugar will make you feel like heaven!
Gyoza Nang Loeng where you can find various full fillings whether pork, crab stick, ham and Chicken Panang with a thin skin. You can eat it by dipping with tomato sauce and mayonnaise. This is one of the popular snacks. However, you can try ordering Japanese pizza, fried chicken and fried shrimp for more.
At the heart of the market, visitors can pay respect for Sansomdejkromlhuang Choomporn who is very close to the local people of the market because in the past his palace was nearby. Currently, this palace had changed to be Rajamangala University of Technology, Phra Nakhon branch near Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem. You can pray for your work achievement.
From the inside of the market, you can walk from Neua Tun Nang Loeng restaurant and you will find the large two-story wooden building with a canvas covering for renovation which is “Chaloem Thani theatre”. This was one of the first movie theatres in Thailand and was the first screening in 1918. It was one called Rongnang Nang Loeng before changing its name to Chaloem Thani theatre in King Rama VII reign for celebrating 150 years of Rattanakosin city in 1932.
Location : https://goo.gl/maps/hsohn2rQqJu
Opposite of Nang Loeng Market, there are many 2-story Pinky buildings on Nakhon Sawan Rd. These buildings were built in Neo classics style since King Rama V reign. These are another signature of Nang Loeng district. There are shops such as Nang Loeng Art which is the photography shop for taking a picture, zooming, and printing. Also, this is the first locker-making shop in Thailand. You will see many rock lockets on their showcase which are the memorial and beautiful items.
Location : https://goo.gl/maps/aHb9rggDtnS2
Taking a step from Nang Loeng market along with Nakhon Sawan Rd., then turn left at Paneang Rd. and you will find Wat Soonthorn Thammathan or as Nang Loong people called as Wat Khae. There is the principal Buddha image, “Phra Soonthorn Muni” in the chapel. Also, in the temple area, there is the royal temple of Por Baramee, the older-than-50-years-old Buddha image. Wat Khae is well known for the keeper of Mitr Chaibancha body, the famous Thai actor. Since he was young, he was the pupil of Praratcha Thamwijarn (Luang Pu Tup) and the starter of Actor/Actress Kathin ceremony for helping and supporting Wat Khae for a long time.
Location : https://goo.gl/maps/9w1CC3fB84G2
From Wat Soonthorn Thammathan, turn left and walk along with Lan Lhuang Rd. and you will reach “Ban Narasilp”, the learning community of Khon, the Khon-lakorn which was established by Mae Lamom Sasangkornkarn since King Rama VI. Previously this place is the community of classical Khon and Thai drama which are the entertainment for Thai people.
Now, this place is taken care of by the third generation, Ms. Phumaree Pansamut. Apart from Khon performance, Chatri drama, and Thai musical instrument performance which are the important Thai culture, Narasilp troupe is the supporter for Khon production making, especially for ornamented body and headdress making and Khon costume embroidering. You can contact them at 02-281-4838.
Location : https://goo.gl/maps/7PRRUfYZ5R42
Walking from Paneang Rd intersection for a while you will reach the office of the National Economics and Social Development Council or Sapaphat which inside is the location of “Baan Phraya Suriyanuwat”. The architecture is referring from Western which is designed from Mario Tamagno, the Italian designer who co-design the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, Siam Commercial Bank at Talad Noi branch and many important places in Bangkok at that time. The local people call this place as Tuk Klang. You can go inside Sapaphat area for sightseeing the exterior of this building. If you want to see the interior, you have to ask their permission first.
Location : https://goo.gl/maps/DF8hP7HMUU92
From the back gate of Sapaphat, turn left and walk along with Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem and you will be at Chaipattana Prachakasem market for shopping some local items from Pattarapat shop, The Chaipattana Foundation project. At the 2nd floor, you can enjoy coffee and chilling wind. This is another relaxed place for boosting up your mind.
Location : https://goo.gl/maps/CdGSHSw9BiE2
Finally, let's go to the hipster bakery cafe on Chakkraphatdi Phong Rd., “Pollen Baked Goods” which the front is decorated with a minimal vintage blue door and the golden letters on the clear window. This place is so warm welcome.
After stepping in the shop, you will feel like some overseas cafe. The small and warm bread shop with decoration. You can try a low-price homemade bakery, sit and enjoy the view in Nang Loeng district, the old town but a nice feeling.
Spending a day in Nang Loeng area to discover the new places and delicious foods together with new generation people creation will make this place more attractive in their own unique style. We recommend you try to visit and enjoy Nang Loeng!
Location : https://goo.gl/maps/Har9pKkzKAS2
Reference: Nang Loeng Booklet; Traditional food, musical and culture (Rev. June 2018)